Bridging the Rains…

DSC00092The sprawling informal settlements associated with mega cities in developing economies by their very nature pay little attention to government regulation or planning requirements. They do however, regimentally and consistently conform to geographical paradigms and theory with alarming accuracy and character. Burgeoning developing capital cites require a minimal cost and a flexible labour force; lots of it. Economic migrants, charmed from the villages by hope and aspiration of the big smoke require self-build shelters and gash space. That land is unlikely to be connected to the electrical grid or mains sewers and is usually found on a steepish slope. With remarkable ingenuity and tenacity the system dysfunctionally functions against the backdrop of lawlessness, poverty and flying toilets.

That is until the big rains come.

Cascading the street sewers and shorting the informal power lines, metal sided shacks go lethal whilst their foundations are undermined and mud walls are stripped to their stick carcasses. The narrow heavily polluted stream that bounds the Kibera slum at Kianda, became an untameable torrent that gorged anything that lay in its extended path.

The rickety homemade bridge will be easy to replace; the two young boys who succumbed that morning will not.

 

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These writings are penned whilst in the field working with our friends who live and work in Kibera and it is hoped that they bring insight, understanding and a provocation that the status-quo is unacceptable. Please feel free to unsubscribe or share as appropriate. Any opinions implied or expressed are my own and names may have been changed for the sake of privacy.

Is Anyone Listening?…

DSC00079By any standards Solent NHS Trust’s well respected and beautifully crafted Emotional First Aid (Peer Mentoring) programme is a winner. Balanced and interactive sessions with clear learning outcomes, supported by graphically perfected designer teaching materials in a comfortable and safe training environment; the course allows the learner to inwardly explore, develop, progress and reach out to those in their care.

Translating into the informalities of the huge Kibera slum was never going to be easy. Rapidly upscaling the course for the 50 or so enthusiastic attendees from an array of backgrounds, faiths, and tribes armed with a single course book requires both a steady nerve and a touch of creativity. Now gently stir in several languages, a translator or two, an aging PA system with intermittent power, a dusty concrete floored community hall, a sprinkling of very mobile toddlers, and a few permanently attached suckling infants…

Loud and chaotic; the initial reticence to engage soon caved to learning Kibera style. The practical exercises and learning sessions degenerated as trust overcame. People visibly changed.

To date emotional health is rarely discussed in Kibera.

Is anyone listening?

 

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These writings are penned whilst in the field working with our friends who live and work in Kibera and it is hoped that they bring insight, understanding and a provocation that the status-quo is unacceptable. Please feel free to unsubscribe or share as appropriate. Any opinions implied or expressed are my own and names may have been changed for the sake of privacy.

Hi-Lights…

kibera lightingMore often than not it the simpler solutions that are the most effective. Kibera is at best notorious for unchecked levels of crime both petty and serious. The installation of ultra-high panoramic lighting stands illuminating some of the more troubled areas have had significant effects on the daily life of Kibera’s bustling residents. Both in government and anecdotal terms there is a tangible increase in confidence and decrease in crime.

Bringing light into the darkness just works…

That is providing the oversized lamps are connected to a reliable supply. A creaking power grid and frequent power outages negate some of the progress. In an effort to replenish the huge government spending pre-general election, power prices have soared and disagreements over apparently inflated bills are met with swift and lengthy disconnections.

The better resourced residents in nearby Nairobi respond with noisy local diesel alternators armed with auto kick in; acrid black diesel exhausts vie with the spoils of the evening Matatu commuters.

 

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These writings are penned whilst in the field working with our friends who live and work in Kibera and it is hoped that they bring insight, understanding and a provocation that the status-quo is unacceptable. Please feel free to unsubscribe or share as appropriate. Any opinions implied or expressed are my own and names may have been changed for the sake of privacy.

Minding Your Own…

DSC00101It is difficult to believe that only 18 months have passed since the inception and introduction of the micro enterprise development to the Kianda district of Kibera. The mere mention of the possibility of manageable short term loans to the shadows that the banks would never entertain, produced an avalanche of interest; not all of it positive. Misunderstandings over loan size, personal responsibility and transparity of the process can be rapidly confused with the everyday Shylock charlatans and the accepted informal inducements that uncomfortably lubricate the already shaky economy.

Local ownership of the day to day running of the project by some of the more established businesses entrepreneurs is essential, as is advice, support and regular site visits. The pride and sense of empowering is overwhelming; the ability to be able to provide for the basic needs of dependants is priceless. To date over 30 new micro businesses are successfully running with a good number repaying their original loan and seeking a further tranche to expand a little more.

The unpredictably of Kibera life creates the inevitable casualties and defaulters that are remarkably few in number. The decision to fund an unexpected funeral or pay up?

You chose…

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DSC00116Shylock:- Loan Shark
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These writings are penned whilst in the field working with our friends who live and work in Kibera and it is hoped that they bring insight, understanding and a provocation that the status-quo is unacceptable. Please feel free to unsubscribe or share as appropriate. Any opinions implied or expressed are my own and names may have been changed for the sake of privacy.

Schooling From the Skies…

20180430_141706Launching a fledgling primary school from scratch on the edge of Kibera is no mean feat. From tiny beginnings residing in the corner of ICA’s community centre with volunteer staff and virtually no equipment; Demand for places at Hope School has rapidly outpaced physical capacity.

Entirely unconnected, Emirates Airlines had sponsored the construction of a rudimentary building for school use only 100 metres away. Rejected by the recipient NGO as ‘unsuitably located’ Emirates took to the web and contacted Hope School offering the building  on a ‘peppercorn’ rent and a five year lease. The ten or so useable classrooms and some rudimentary latrines connected to a real water supply easily out-class the unusually austere, near windowless exterior, and the open air inward facing courtyard.

Questioning this bizarre design reveals the builders’ anticipation of the possible failure of the school or NGO abandonment. Each classroom is coincidently the dimensions of a standard Kibera dwelling.

 

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These writings are penned whilst in the field working with our friends who live and work in Kibera and it is hoped that they bring insight, understanding and a provocation that the status-quo is unacceptable. Please feel free to unsubscribe or share as appropriate. Any opinions implied or expressed are my own and names may have been changed for the sake of privacy.

 

 

Green Screen…

MTV KiberaThe Chinese invasion of low-cost smart phones into Kibera has reached near saturation point for the under thirties. The insatiable appetite for social media and instant chat has had little effect on the more traditional forms of communication. Competing music can be heard pounding the sinews of elderly part functioning speaker stacks daily. Local radio stations operating from the humblest of studios dance with genre and local news.

Mature CRT televisions are communally watched for a small fee and the variety of content is immeasurable. American sitcoms stoke aspiration of life beyond Kibera and nestle alongside a multiplicity of local soap, news and political promise.

Taking part in a local chat show necessitated a visit to the smallest of TV stations. A couple of rooms rented in empty shopping centre in central Nairobi set the stage. A bijou studio, cloaked in green screen, a single camera, one monitor, no rehearsal and a hastily scribbled set of notes just out of sight. Fifty minutes punctuated by commercial break relief developed a new respect for this adrenalin fuelled rooky anchor.

Meanwhile, Mr Norton can relax…

 

 

These writings are penned whilst in the field working with our friends who live and work in Kibera and it is hoped that they bring insight, understanding and a provocation that the status-quo is unacceptable. Please feel free to unsubscribe or share as appropriate. Any opinions implied or expressed are my own and names may have been changed for the sake of privacy.

Boda Boda…

matatuNairobi’s peak traffic inflicts pollution levels that are civically unmeasured. A choking blanket of acrid fumes exude from the numerous elderly and poorly maintained matutu; essential to move the thousands of workers around the metropolis.  When the arterial routes inevitable grind to a halt, journey times can extend from twenty minutes to several hours, whilst the smog clings and chokes in the morning heat. The eventual gridlocked traffic only exacerbates; trapping lungs and shortening lives.

Whilst the newer wealth migrate to personal private transportation, increasing congestion further, a fresh challenger is emerging. The number of boda bodas (taxi motor cycles) is exploding. Economically imported from India and China, the entrepreneurial owner operator can provide a fast and cheap alternative that can circumnavigate just about anything. Pavement and traffic direction are no barrier and the paying pillion ride is truly terrifying. Build quality and emissions are at best dubious and the crash fatality rates heart wrenching. Rapid development and the Nairobi population pull-factor will only escalate the problem.

London, in an apparent overnight coup recently introduced the ‘T’ charge; an eye watering £10.00 daily toxicity levy on older vehicles in attempt to make the air more breathable. The average daily wage in Kibera is £2.00.

Boda bodaMatatu: Public minibus taxi
Boda Boda: Taxi motor cycle

Dance School…

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Navigating the narrow dark alleyways of the Kianda area of Kibera as an alien is nigh on impossible without a local guide and some form of security. Informal settlements are just that, land space is at a premium and planning is a luxury. The rough and often steep alleyways double up as refuse repositories and foul drainage, punctuated with rocks enacting a comical acrobatic sashay perambulation by the visitor with the inevitable alarming miss-hap.

It is therefore all the more remarkable that deep within these catacombs nestles an oasis of creativity and respite. Several shacks have been connected to form a dance school of impressive proportions. James and his dedicated team provide quality training to the children of Kianda in dance and art regardless of ability or age. A lively African drummed showcase of stunning proportions followed, demonstrating a dedication and commitment that was truly breath-taking and worthy of the larger stage.

Carefully weaved into their work are clear social messages of education and hope that are Kibera relevant, heart wrenching and sometimes brutal. The love and care is evident and all encompassing, the volunteer’s dedication and commitment are palpable.

Kibera is never predictable and James is of course is a graduate from a Nairobi ballet school.

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Please visit Foundation of Hope on https://www.facebook.com/foundationofhopekibera/

Election Re-Runs…

Kibera RiotElections fever runs high in Nairobi and although only around twenty percent of the Kibera residents are registered to vote it is inevitable that there that there is an overflow of frustration into the dark and narrow alleyways. On the wider tracks open back trucks loaded with oversized public address systems that could shame Wembley, broadcast messages with an energy and ear drum snapping volume that is both infectious and intimidating. If this fails than flurries of fifty shilling notes illegally incentivise whilst snubbing the concept of voter bribes.

 

The hope of democracy has to be the way forward when the chasm of inequality is so prevalent and it is easy to stoke unrest in a community that has so little and everything to gain. The politicians know that. Demonstrations can be quickly whipped into full scale riots, whilst the presence of illegal firearms degenerates into settling old scores with the inevitable toll on human life.

 

It is therefore hugely encouraging that in the Kiandi area gunshot deaths are in measurable decline. The Kibera Saints football project amongst others is working with the young men who are gradually learning that there just could be another way and are choosing not to get involved in the melees.

 

The first 2017 election was declared invalid; the current rerun tension is palpable.

 

 

50 Kenyan shillings = 36p (UK)
Photo by Mark Tizodi

 

 

 

 

 

These writings are inspired and usually penned whilst in the field working with our friends who live and work in Kibera and it is hoped that they bring insight, understanding and a provocation that the status-quo is unacceptable. Please feel free to unsubscribe or share as appropriate. Any opinions implied or expressed are my own and names may have been changed for the sake of privacy.